Dangerous hideouts include water glasses, bathrooms, doorways, window, stoves, and sofas. Hard to find hideouts include curtain rods, plants, lamps, mantels, ceiling fans, picture frames, and underneath furniture. They can also hide inside objects like laundry baskets, boxes, and drawers. [2] X Research source
Do not give the bird the same treat on any occasion other than returning to the cage, else it might find going back to the cage less special. [4] X Research source Never use time in the cage as punishment; this will create negative associations with the cage. [5] X Research source
While you don’t want to make the outside too inviting, you should make sure that your bird gets a good amount of exercise out of the cage. It’s good for its health and a tired bird will be easier to put back in the cage. /trainedparrot. com/Caging/ It can also help to time your birds outside time up with a regular sleeping schedule. That means, put it back in the cage every night before returning to bed. As the lights begin to go off it will understand that it is time to rest.
It is important not to be too gentle with the hose. If you don’t get the bird sufficiently wet quick enough, it will only be frightened off. Have friends scattered around to watch what direction the bird flies if it escapes. If they can find a high perch for a good view, even better. Nighttime can be a good time to catch a bird. They often are tired. Furthermore, if you shine a high powered flashlight in their face, they might be blinded long enough for another person to grab them.
A towel can help you secure the bird without applying too much pressure. Covering its face will also reduce the threat that the bird will see something that causes stress. However, you should be sure that it is a breathable cloth towel that does not obstruct the flow of oxygen to the bird. [12] X Research source
Check frequently, because your bird will likely panic when captured. You will want to use what is called a “live trap,” which traps the bird without causing physical harm to it. Typically, this will be a cage trap, which, like it sounds, is a cage that will trap any bird that steps inside.
Don’t be disheartened if your bird doesn’t reappear immediately though. Some birds can live for years in the wild. [16] X Research source
If the doorways leading into the room don’t have doors, you can hang towels or blankets in them so that they are blocked. Use push pins to hold the towel or blanket up.
Be careful not to touch the bird roughly. Birds are gentle and susceptible to damage from even relatively light contact. [20] X Research source
Remember, migratory birds will only be around temporarily; it might be best to wait them out. [22] X Research source
Before installing any of these, you should clean bird droppings from the surface. Ultrasonic emitters have not been found to be effective. Devices intended to scare birds with loud sounds and bright visuals are also less effective in urban areas, where birds have often acclimated to such distractions. [24] X Research source
You can try practicing with things other than your finger, includes sticks. Ladders can be particularly useful because birds naturally like to walk up them. Training your bird to do this can be an easy way to get them back into the cage. Because birds like to move upward, your bird will often grow fonder of this trick if you begin to lift your finger slowly after it steps up. [27] X Research source Some people recommend that you perform this procedure every time you return your bird to its cage. The idea is that, if you allow it to fly back on its own volition it might come to believe that it sets its own schedule for outside time.
You should practice these positions during regular training, so that your bird becomes accustomed to them and does not anticipate that it means a return to the cage. Also, if it becomes second nature, you will be less likely to forget to secure it and allow it to fly off when it is someplace foreign or dangerous. [29] X Research source
